“There’s something about Stockholm--it keeps drawing me back,” my friend Jennifer, a seasoned world traveler, told me. After my recent visit I can see why…it’s an easy place to love. Everyone speaks English, (students must prove their proficiency before graduating from high school), and it’s a manageable city with the highest density of galleries and museums in the world. About the size of San Francisco, Stockholm is a walking city. For up to date information on events, new hotels and restaurants, visit the official government websites: www.visitsweden.com and www.stockholmtown.com.
Sweden is a trendsetter in clothing and home design, inspired by the surrounding natural beauty. You can’t go far in this city without seeing water. Built on 14 islands, Stockholm’s water is so clean you can actually swim in the lake surrounding the City Center. A stone sculpture with an environmental barometer even indicates the quality of the water that day. Just a short boat ride from away you can explore the 24,000 islands of the archipelago.
To be in the center of the action, stay at the historic Radisson SAS Strand Hotel overlooking the Harbor. Built for Olympics in 1912, “…there’s lots of history in these walls,” explained Charlotte Blum, General Manager. One of the employees, Brigatta, could tell you much of it. She’s 75 years old and has worked at the Radisson for 52 years!
You’re close to everything at the Radisson. World class shopping, boat trips, Old Town, and the Opera house. For a view of City Hall, where the Nobel Prize ceremony is held, book the penthouse with a private terrace. Front row seats to the sunset are free. Grab a seat at the sidewalk bar and watch the golden light reflect off the historic architecture opposite the quay.
The elaborate breakfast buffet will fortify you for a day of exploration. Start with the Vasa, a museum that’s really a boat. A warship built in 1628, the Vasa was built to show the world how wealthy and powerful Sweden had become. Unfortunately the King’s vanity caused him to load the ship with gold and heavy wooden carved images that made the Vasa sink on its maiden voyage. The boat was resurrected from the sea 350 years later and thanks to the cold water it is beautifully preserved. If you know any sailors, there are lots of useful trinkets in the gift shop. Rich, my skipper and husband, picked up a floating key chain made of cork.
Another popular attraction is City Hall, site of the Nobel Prize awards dinner. The entrance hall, where the Nobel dinner takes place is plain and cold, but the reception room is resplendent with gold tile walls depicting Swedish history.
Some people go to museums to learn about a city, I go shopping. If you think retail therapy is not a cultural experience, book an expedition with Smart City Shopping. Lotta Carlsen shows locals and tourists little known stores that all have stories to tell. Svenskt Tenn, which only sells items made in Sweden, is a non-profit foundation that donates funds for gene therapy research so you can shop guilt free, knowing you’re giving to charity! The store features fabric by Josef Frank, a Jewish artist who created pop art designs while hiding in New York from the Nazis during World War II.
Oscar and Clothilde is a tiny boutique named after a fantasy couple created by the owners and kept alive on the website. Oscar is British, Clothilde is French and they correspond in letters from their frequent travels. The store’s owners are passionate collectors who bring their finds from across the world to their tiny Swedish store.
I found a heavy sterling silver rectangular necklace of St. Eric at Efra Attling, a jewelry designer Madonna favors. Check out her champagne glasses with rings attached to the stem. If the glass breaks you won’t be sad because you’ll have jewelry--the perfect gift for klutzes like me.
My husband snapped up a blue sweatshirt at SVEA, a store bearing the ancient name of the Swedish kingdom. Since he needed pants to go with his new top we headed for J. Lindeberg. A popular clothing store in Sweden that is just opening up in America, it’s known for sports clothes worn by golf pro Jesper Parnivick. Rich snapped some wild multi-colored stovepipe pants and a belt with a big silver J.L. buckle. I think he was secretly hoping the new wardrobe would improve his golf handicap or maybe just scare off the other players.
After you’ve tried on those skinny jeans., check out the Östermalmshallen Food market. If you go to this food hall first you may not be able to squeeze into the latest styles. Your diet will go out the window as you pass by rows of chocolates, pastries, caviar, chesses, lingonberry jams and shrimp in cream sauce. Don’t miss the mounted head of a large reindeer, smiling down on the stall selling his body parts. Even if you’re not hungry the architecture is worth a look… the ceiling rises almost 90 feet and the handsomely carved interiors lend it a majestic air.
Despite their penchant for smorgasbords the Swedes stay thin through exercise. Locals ride bikes to work in the summer and cross country ski in the winter months. Long before it became hip to be “green,” Sweden was environmentally aware. The country has vowed to become oil free in and you can benefit from their enlightened vision by enjoying the country’s unspoiled beauty. Just about a 45 minute boat ride away from the bustling city center of Stockholm you’re invited to step back in time at the village of Vaxholm, the unofficial capitol of the Archipelago. It’s the closest island to Stockholm, and you can easily spend an afternoon shopping, enjoying fresh fish at a harbor restaurant with a view of the ancient fortress, walking through the old wooden buildings, or just jumping in the water with the local kids.
I can’t write about Stockholm without mentioning my husband’s favorite pastime--people watching. As my friend Karen said, “Sweden is a smorgasbord of beautiful people.” To mingle with the young and fashionable, visit the Cafe Opera bar where the Prince is rumored to hang out. A hand-painted Baroque ceiling of angels competes with the striking models and starlets at the bar. The evening we visited the contestants for Miss Stockholm took over the stage.
On the way to the airport, stop by a living museum, Sigtuna, the oldest city in Sweden. We got a tour from my husband’s cousin Karin, who is justifiably proud of the ancient ruins and delightful downtown. A new five star hotel has just been built overlooking the water that we’re tempted to book for our next trip. I’m with Jennifer, there’s something about Sweden that’s calling me back.
Stockholm Waterfront
Here is a link to one of Ruth latest articles on Sweden from on on line publication Portovert
Shattered Magazine Sweden's Hopes for a Feminist Party by Ruth Wertzberger Carlson
SHATTERED MAGAZINE NOV/DEC 2006
Sweden’s Failed Feminist Party By Ruth Wertzberger Jane Fonda made a special trip to Sweden to help out. So did Eva Ensler, author of the Vagina Monologues. But despite these celebrities, Sweden’s newest political party, the Feminist Initiative, failed to get the four percent of votes necessary to attain seats in Parliament. When I called to arrange an interview with the head of the party, Gudrun Schyman, she surprised me by picking up the phone. “Well of course I answer the phone, there is no staff, we’re all volunteers,” Schyman explained. Even though I called the day she learned the party lost, Schyman graciously agreed to an interview. “It’s been tough, but we knew it would take time and we are not down. We have built up enormous enthusiasm for the party. No one is defeated, this is the first step and it takes time. The big thing we have done is show that there must be another perspective in politics,” she said.
The question most observers pose is why Sweden needs a feminist party. More than 80 percent of the women have jobs, about half of the members of Parliament are female, and new parents receive 480 days of paid leave per couple. Subsidized, full-time preschool is available from the day the child turns one year old. Sweden has both a minister and an official ombudsman dealing with gender equality. From an outsider’s point of view, Sweden seems like a working woman’s dream.
Schyman disagrees. “It’s a myth that Sweden is more equitable. More women can work because we have a good daycare system and there is good parental leave, but in other areas our pattern is the same as the rest of the world. The Feminist Party is necessary because we have seen a backlash and our labor market is the same as it was 20 years ago. There are salary gaps and more women are forced to work part-time.” Data from the government office, Statistics Sweden, shows that women take home about 84 percent of what their male colleagues earn, down from 85 percent in 1995. “Feminism is not done here. We have a lot of women in Parliament but that doesn’t mean women’s rights are high up on the political agenda,” argues Schyman. “All women are not feminists and all feminists are not women.”
She also cited the need to reduce violence against women. The Swedish National Council for Crime Prevention statistics shows that male assaults against females rose 40 percent in the 1990s.
The actress Jane Fonda became involved with the Feminist party when she was touring Stockholm to promote her biography. “We met through mutual friends,” explained Schyman. “She was very interested in our movement and offered to come back to Sweden and support our efforts.” Polls then showed that almost a quarter of the electorate would consider voting for the party in parliamentary elections next year.
So what happened? Critics cite some of the extreme views espoused by party members, such as the need to abolish marriage. Schyman blames it on politics as usual. “Sweden has block thinking…the right wing and the left wing. This election has been extremely concentrated on two men running for prime minister. The mass media only discussed and debated political parties already in Parliament. It makes it hard for a new organization that has no money.”
Perhaps time will resolve the inequities regardless of politics. Charlotte Blum, general manager of the Radisson SAS hotel in Stockholm, said, “In my generation, I was born in the 60’s, many woman have not had time to have children. The generations born in the 70’s and later don’t seem to have any problems with equal responsibilities for their home and career. They share and focus on the balance in life and having a fulfilled life together. I see a great difference among these young men’s attitudes compared to older generations.”
Men in general take three to six months family leave out of the 15 months allocated by the government, observed Blum. “Often you hear that the reason the man does not take time off is the difference in salary and that in some organizations it is still not okay to take paternity leave. It’s also said that many mothers want to stay home. When women have children they often choose to work part time and that is where the trap is when it comes to career. So women sometimes find it difficult to plan for children and careers.”
Schyman is not giving up. “The next step is to continue the work. There will be more elections and we’re already getting ready for the next one is in 2009. After all it was only a year ago that we first decided to run for election.”
-END-
We recently spent a week in Stockholm and ended up in the local newspaper
Here is Ruth's latest article on Sweden, from the Feb/March 2007 issue of PINK MAGAZINE. The article is called "Abroad Swedish Roles"
If you're planning on doing business in Sweden, tone it down.
"The general prejudice about the Americans is that you are quite loud and
not too familiar with European geography, customs and foreign languages,"
says Charlotte Blum, General Manager, Radisson SAS Strand Hotel, Stockholm.
"For an American woman working in Sweden I think it is important to try to
learn the culture," says Blum. "We are quite consensus oriented and work in
teams."
Many Swedes are quite familiar with the US, says Blum. "Many of us have been
there studying or just visiting as tourists, usually with very good
experiences. Many also have relatives in the US." The dress code is classic. "Black is a very common color because it fits formost occasions. "I work in the hotel industry where we always dress in suits," said Blum.
"We don't like to be flashy," agrees Karin Staffes, a physical therapist in Sigtuna. "We're understated."
You may find yourself doing business over the infamous smorgasbord. Blum says it is Swedish typical fare.not a tourist attraction. If you're invited to one, only fill your plate with one selection at a time and let the waiter clear your plate between courses. There is usually a fish serving, meat offering, salads and dessert. Swedes may fill their plates five times but manage to stay slim by biking or walking. Stockholm is an easy city to navigate, about the same size of San Francisco with a lot fewer hills.
The good news is you don't have to worry about a language barrier. Before students can graduate from high school, they have to prove they are proficient in English.
Ruth & Lotta Carlsen Power Shopping thru Stockholm www.smartcityshopping.se
Lotta Carlsen at the Svenskt Tenn Department Store in Stockholm
Room with a View Radisson SAS Strand Hotel Stockholm
The METRO Stockholm Sweden
Night Life in Stockholm Sweden
Night Life at the Opera Cafe Stockholm Sweden
Vaxholm Sweden
East West Life + Style Vol4 Issue4
Living the Swedish Life...in Shanghai
Travels to the Real Deal
Living the Swedish dream…in Shanghai
By: Ruth Carlson
China is importing the Swedish way of life…and residents are lining up to buy a piece of the dream. Luodian, a new planned community for 30,000 people under construction outside Shanghai, is a replica of Sigtuna, the oldest village in Sweden. With pastel buildings, a lake, church steeple in the town square, and a pedestrian friendly environment with lots of green space, Luodian is appealing to the Chinese vision of Sweden.
People were lining up to buy the expensive villas as soon as word got out about the gated community according to Tan Ying Nilsson, an architect with Sweco, the Swedish firm that designed the town. The city includes apartments and 40 detached villas, which are very expensive by Chinese standards, over $600,000 U.S.
“Scandinavia is exotic to the Chinese,” says Nilsson, a Beijing native who married a Swede. “Norway, Sweden, Denmark, Finland, with their literature, their welfare system, and their different famous products, such as Ikea, are dreamlands for many Chinese people.” Nilsson says the new Ikea in Beijing is nicer, bigger and cheaper than the one in Stockholm!
The Swedish town is part of a plan to relieve some of the growing pains in Shanghai, one of the fastest growing cities in the world. To convince the new middle class to move to the “burbs,” the government is building nine towns resembling western countries: the UK, the USA, Russia, Spain, Sweden, France, the Netherlands, Germany and Italy. The government hopes that with a five-star hotel, PGA-approved golf course, amusement park, local businesses, and public transportation, the cities will truly be self-contained.
Luodian was modeled on Sigtuna after Chinese officials visited the village and fell in love with its small town charm. “The habit in China is to copy designs rather than ask for originals,” explains Mark Ryberg, Executive Vice President, Sweco.
The strong environmental basis of Swedish design also appeals to the Chinese government, which has declared creating a sustainable society a top priority. “In today’s China there are a lot of people who have fulfilled their material needs,” says Ryberg. “They are now concerned about a better life for the next generation. Whatever we plan we do with great respect for nature and natural resources and water systems.”
In fact Nilsson complains that “green” issues are so ingrained in Swedish culture she often has to point out the features to the Chinese clients. “From the planning to landscape design to architectural design – the environmental concerns are just taken for granted in Sweden,” she says.
In China, though, these sustainable developments are a new idea and catching on quickly. Sweco is planning projects in Beijing, Tianjin, Guangzhou, and Qingdao.
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It’s Easy Being Green in Sweden
By: Ruth Carlson
Photos by Rich Carlson
Long before it was hip to be “green,” Sweden was ecologically friendly. The capital city of Stockholm is built on 14 islands and the water is so clean you can actually swim in the harbor surrounding the City Center. A sleek stone sculpture with an environmental barometer indicates the quality of the water that day, handy for workers considering taking the plunge during their lunch hour.
For a front row seat of the passing parade of swimmers, bikers, and sailors, stay at the historic Radisson SAS Strand Hotel overlooking the busy quay. There are 250,000 leisure boats in Sweden, which means every sixth person has a boat!
Most of them head for the archipelago in the summer. Just 45-minutes away from the bustling city center of Stockholm, this chain of 24,000 islands is an unspoiled natural paradise. Although 85% of the islands are private property, by Swedish law they are open to everyone. You’re welcome to hike, bike or camp as long as you clean up after yourself and don’t disturb the residents.
If you’re lucky you might meet some of the locals. Lena Eklund invited me and my husband, Rich to her home for some homemade elderberry juice. The teacher for the only school on Brott Island, she and her husband operate a kayak rental shop in the summer. Brott is typical of the Archipelago… inhabited since the Stone Age, its 150 full-time residents swell to 3,000 visitors each summer.
The unofficial capitol of the Archipelago is Vaxholm, the most developed island and the closest to Stockholm. It’s easy to while away an afternoon fishing, basking on a sunny rock, exploring the old wooden shops, or enjoying some smoked salmon at an outdoor café overlooking the ancient fortress surrounding the channel. The Archipelago is all about relaxing.
When you’re ready to return to the big city, you can still be environmentally friendly. About the size of San Francisco, Stockholm is a walking city with more museums per square capita than anywhere else in the world.
Even the stores have a conscience in Sweden. The most famous shop, Svenst Tenn, is a non-profit foundation that donates to gene therapy research so you can shop guilt free. All of the products at this 81-year old institution are made in Sweden but it’s best known for pillows and furniture made with fabric designs by the famed 1950’s artist Josef Frank.
Afterwards, stroll to the Cafe Opera Bar frequented by the young royals. We didn’t spot Princess Victoria, heiress to the throne, but Rich was happy to see the Miss Stockholm contestants on stage. I was more impressed with the hand-painted Baroque ceiling of angels.
To get to the airport, we took the fastest and least expensive option, the Arlanda Express, an electric-powered train. On our way we stopped by Sigtuna, the oldest city in Sweden and the inspiration for Loudian, the new urban development in Shanghai.
My cousin Karin, justifiably proud of her village, gave us a tour of Sweden’s first planned community. The cobblestone main street, which doesn’t allow cars, is lined with two-story wooden 18th century buildings painted muted tones of yellow, grey and green. The shops, beckoning customers with antique hand-carved hanging signs, are on the lower floors and apartments are above, the current trend in American housing! Stop in the bakery to see the chocolate cake with a cocoa stencil of the famous church steeple, a building that has also been copied in Shanghai. To see the town China fell in love with, stay at the only hotel in town, the new five star Sigtuna Stads overlooking Lake Malmen.
Ecological tours are the popular buzzword for travel agents these days but it never occurs to Sweden to promote its environmental gems. Preserving natural and historic resources is just a part of life here. So whether you prefer city attractions or the laid back atmosphere of Sigtuna and the archipelago, you can expect to find it clean and green in Sweden.
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